The travel blog of Leks, Moose, Amitch, and Kai as we start the adventure of a lifetime-3 weeks in Ghana and 5 in South Africa for the World Cup. Hello World
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Big Leks Updates
Thursday, June 24, 2010
The Beginnings of South Africa
Finally a minute to write something down. We are posted up in a hotel in Joburg, our first night of indoor sleeping since arriving here. We were looking forward to the security of having our things in a locked room, until we ran into a guy staying in the next room. He had checked in half an hour before us, and gone to get lunch, came back about 30 minutes later to find his room completely cleaned out, everything stolen (world cup tickets and passports included). So I suppose we will rethink this a little bit.
Anyways, the trip this far has been absolutely amazing. We left Accra (Ghana) at 1130 p.m. after a two and half hour delay, and having been issued hand-written boarding passes…I don’t think we even needed the tickets. This is Africa, as they say. Landed in Johannesburg to find a very different Africa. South Africa seems almost European. We rented a car for the first six days originally, but after realizing the convenience, and relative inexpensiveness as compared to bussing place to place, we have extended the booking for the rest of our time here. We spent the first couple of hours in Joburg taking care of some errands, mainly buying a tent and getting grub. We then headed to Pilanesburg, a national park/game reserve set in the crated of an old volcano. By far the best way to start this trip. We arrived on a Thursday night, and woke up at six to get in the park right when it opened. We spent nine hours driving around the park, seeing some of the most amazing and beautiful sights I have ever seen. We managed to see rhinos, elephants, a male lion eating a zebra, zebras, some female lions, giraffes, gazelle, antelope, wildebeests, hippos, and the list goes on and on. It was so cool, and never-endingly entertaining.
We then headed to Rustenburg for the Ghana vs. Australia game, which was amazing. The stadium was set in the middle of a bunch of mountains, and the sun set beautifully above the colorful crowd. We were lucky enough to land seats in the middle of the very small but rowdy Ghanian contingent, so it was loads of fun. We slept (camped) that night at the Hodge Podge lodge, which was a nice little joint. We woke up early the next day to head to Joburg, where we paid an absurd fifty dollars each to camp (200 bucks a spot). We went and watched Ivory Coast vs. Brazil in a great game at Soccer City stadium. It was loads of fun, and I managed to meet up with a good friend from Gainesville to go to the game, Julie H. It was a great time.
Next morning we went to the Apartheid museum, which was really moving and well put together. From there we headed to Blomfontein for the South Africa vs.France game, which was loads of fun. Everyone here is so friendly and proud to be hosting the Cup. We hitched a ride into town from the place we were camping with two friendly South Africans, who were just very grateful for us being there and being comfortable in their country. It was an excellent experience the game was amazing, and the crowds and vuvu zelas were amazing. After the game we went to dinner with a friend of Aleksis’ dad, which was really nice, and then we hit the bars for some South African entertainment, which turned out to be great.
This morning we woke up and took the 4 hour drive back up to Joburg, and checked into the hotel. Luckily at this point (the end of our first night), nothing has been stolen from our room! After checking in we hit the mall to watch to US game, which they won in the 91st minute, to great celebration. We then went back to the hotel, locked up our stuff, and headed to the stadium with some rum in tow. The game was great, and although Ghana did not win, it was a win-win, with both Germany and Ghana making it on to the next round. The game was fantastic though, and the crowds were loads of fun. After the game we hitched a cheap ride back to the hotel.
The games have been so amazing to actually attend. The crowds are so much fun and we have all caught the World Cup bug all over again. Today we went and got round 16 tickets to see the USA vs Ghana game, and we also have Germany vs England coming up soon as well. More to come soon. Pictures too hopefully!
Peace
Kai
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Big Leks Rambles
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Ze Ghana
I am in Africa, Ghana to be exact, somewhere around Kumasi to be more exact. Though I feel like I feel like Africa sums it up. I am currently sitting at the back of a disgustingly hot bus, sweating profusely, cramped behind a woman's seat that must be broken - she's nearly in my lap. My companions, the miserable men sitting to the right of me are Moose Halpern, Aleksis Psychas, and Kai Moreb. This summer we set out on an adventure that began in Accra and will end in South Africa, at the world cup. If you aren't jealous then stop reading. I only wish to provoke titillating hatred by those sitting at their desks in DC, or New York, enter whatever 9-5 internship you snagged. At least it will look good on the resume, right? I hope Riggio’s leadership book is enthralling. Are you there yet? Sufficiently pissed? Me too, see, it’s this fucking bus.
We’re on the way to Accra, the capital of Ghana, from Tamale. It is hour five of our thirteen hour trip. Tamale is one of the most Northern cities in Ghana, a calm region that is a bit different than the rest of the nation. Our local homie Razak told us it is about 55 percent Muslims, a statement echoed by the prayers booming from the mosques 5 times daily. The market at the center of the city is similar to the ones we’ve seen thus far: full of second hand American apparel (not your $35 sparkly unitard - instead it's the 1998 Hall and Oates revival tank top your dad gave away 7 years ago) and more fresh fruit than your salivary glands can handle. However it is the same in the sense that as white travelers (Obrunis as Ghanians say), we are perpetually being hustled. Which is fair enough, I could probably start a successful business here with a dollar amount equivalent to last year’s 16 meal plan. My Nikes shout, “I am governed to pay twice as much for this taxi ride.” Luckily we’re traveling with Big Leks, the ultimate bargainer. Cold hearted some would say, but he’s used to it. See the whole reason we are even in Ghana is because his family lives in Accra. They’ve graciously let us destroy the contents of their cupboards and spoil their toilets with ample amounts of travelers diarrhea – an unfortunate inevitability. I knew the fish looked funky.
But this bus… this is just one bus, the last bus. Our first bus took us comfortably to Cape Coast, home of an interesting yet disturbing attraction: the Cape Coast Slave Castle. This place was built sometime in the 1400’s I think, maybe earlier, or later, I’m not really sure when but I don't care it is a slave castle and it is spooky. We walked into the slave dungeons and stood among the stones of unforgiving humanity, imagining the horror of which time has still not redeemed. Though I would say the Door of No Return affected me the most. It is where the slaves were slung into American and European ships, never to see their home or families again. Goodbye Momma Africa, freedom, hello cotton plantation. Forget a textbook, send a sixth grader to a slave castle and they'll never forget the sensation of heartbreak.
When we were adequately freaked out and sad, we left the spirits of the castle and jumped in a taxi headed for the jungle. Yes the jungle, like panthers and fat spiders, and so much humidity my glasses fogged up like your Saturday night memory. Our purpose was to accomplish the canopy walk: A series of swaying bridges connected to the treetops. Yeah, “what the shit” is what I was thinking too, but when we got up there, along with an elementary school full of screaming children, I found it to be pretty amazing. Caught in the fog, we swayed our way across rope bridges like Indiana Jones. Maybe less swiftly, especially Leks, dude is top heavy with a feet the width of the bridge itself.
In the three days following our deep jungle excursion we hit up the Green Turtle, an environmentally friendly beach resort that is just a Corona commercial away from paradise. Actually it was soap and mosquito repelent away from paradise. If malaria has ever entered my bloodstream it was at the Green Turtle. Thank the holy lord for Doxycycline, my Malaria / Chlamydia / Syphilis / any-infection-you-might-ever-get pill. Despite the itching bites, we found happiness in a five cedi ($3.50) liter of gin, and the unexpected entertainment of a Jenga set. Pull, assign drink, pull, assign drink, make it fall- take a shot. Egyptians had it down, architecture is fun.
We left the Green Turtle just in time to catch our 12pm bus to Kumasi - the land of entertainment. Just kidding, Kumasi is lame. We ate fake Chinese food and hung in a parking lot with this chief Jamal trying to sell us Kumasi Kush. We may or may not have been convinced. I don't know, Kumasi more or less evades my memory.
The next morning we hopped another bus, this one 7 hours to Tamale. Leks’ pops is working on a campaign to fight malaria in more rural areas of Ghana, and that’s where we were heading, to one of those rural villages outside of Tamale. We had to change transportation to get to the village - you’ve never seen more people crammed in one rickety van (a tro-tro). I counted 24, including the nipple-latched infant feeding next to Kai. We were fine until the hood flew up and gave the windshield a proper spider-web look. Leks was in the front and I thank science his face wasn’t shredded with the harsh shards of automotive oversight. Though in spite of the scare, we made it to the village unscathed, wet from the shoulder sweat of our neighbors, a consequence of doubling the recommended number of passengers.
The village was like every African charity commercial you see on TV, minus the cleft pallets and ballooned bellies. So it wasn't really, I guess just the mud huts and nearly naked children, chilling out maxing, relaxing all cool.The kids were ecstatic to see a camera and posed for us while we got our fill of culture to show the rest of the world what awesome travelers we are. I was there! For the malaria spray, the huts were emptied and shot with a pesticide which supposedly lasts a year. When mosquitoes land on the walls they die immediately, like they deserve. Naughty disease spreaders. The spray was interesting, but the village culture was by far the best part. Upon our departure we were given a guinea fowl by the chief linguist, a lovely offering we kindly accepted, though we later gave it away to more adequately trained fowl chefs.
The trip north was incredible. Yet now I am cursing my life, minutes away from going mad. It is dark and the shine of my book light on the flow of my pen is the only thing keeping me sane, just barely. The potholes in the dirt road are not assisting my legibility and I may stab this lady in front of me screaming, "I am six foot three, you are four eleven, do you realize how little space I have!" I won't though. I'll sit here with my noise canceling headphones relaying silence from the dead iPod in my pocket, thinking of all the amazing aspects of this trip I didn't touch on. There's more to come though, on South Africa, the cup and such. I mean, if you care, the eight dollars Carl pays me per article isn't quite a driving force. Just saying.
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Tuesday, June 1, 2010
A Quick Recap Of The Last Week Or So
- Hey all, this is a short little catch up on our first week or so here. My name is Kai, and I have known Leks since middle school, back in Gainesville, FL. We have been talking about taking this trip for at least four years now, so its amazing that it is actually coming together. Hope you enjoy the blog.
- Ada Foah
So, I think I am going to start doing something new. I will post a song that I listened to during the series of pictures that follow. This way you can get into the mood a little more. Todays song is by Cheb Khaled, many of you probably know it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2DPa1eGMpo
We left yesterday for the tiny fishing village of Ada Foah (http://bit.ly/cFx2go). Ada is home to Ghana’s National Sailing Club, which although not huge, hosts over twenty Hobie Cats, probably all of which have been imported by ex-pats. We arrived in the early evening yesterday, and shortly after when to go get dinner at a nearby restaurant. We were the only ones there, and it was directly on the water, so it made for a very relaxing and peaceful environment. Dinner consisted of rice with a whole Tilapia, and a tomato sauce. I really was not feeling well, as I came down with what I am sure will be the first of many bouts of travelers diarrhea. I will spare the details, but not pleasant. I feel better today, and ate a full dinner and still feel good, so hopefully it has passed. After dinner we went back to the club and played poker. I retired early due to the way I was feeling, and unfortunately missed a nice bottle of whiskey and a moonlit kayak trip. No worries, many more adventures to come. Today we spent the day hanging out at the club, sailing a small dingy, kayaking, and swimming as well. This village was located on river Volta, which hits the ocean just a couple of kilometers away.
Fishermen (or boys rather) laying out nets. Oldest was no older then 15, and the youngest probably about 7.
Young fisherman bringing in his net.
Paul and Miriam in the Blokkie, their bathtub of a sailing boat. It can actually pick up some good speed though.
A push-up lizard, named after the action it does to wow potential mates.
Miriam using a raft that Oscar and Paul built.
From left to right: Mitch, Miriam, Paul, Leks. Sitting around snacking.
A Moose yawn. I enjoyed it.
A man relaxes during the midday heat.
A cluster of houses near the village. Some with thatched roofs.
The first of what I am sure will be many nights spent under mosquito netting. Double bunk beds housed the four of us boys last night.
-love/hate-I will progress.-
- The First Days Here
So Leks has been showing us some some the sights here in Accra. We drove around two days ago through terrible traffic, which meant we didn’t see to much, but we did manage to get a good sense of how huge Accra is. It has a population of about 4 million, and just sprawls for miles and miles. We went to the national square, with the famous Black Star National Monument, as well as to see the stadium they newly remodeled for the last African Cup. Yesterday we woke up early in an attempt to secure some additional World Cup tickets, but despite promises, Fifa’s website crashed once again. We did manage to get another ticket to a game in round 16, which will hopefully be England vs. somebody. It is a bit of a guessing game to see who will make it that far once you get to that point. We then went to the biggest market in Ghana, and possibly all of Western Africa.
Makola market is anything but clean and tidy. Its very crowded and there are piles of boot-legged items everywhere.
Moose munchin on a mango.
This lady is selling slices of watermelon, and Leks in the distance.
Pigs feet and other meats. Women very gracefully carrying big containers filled with various things on their head.
Moose to the left. A woman almost buried in the ginger and other items she sells.
We did not stay to long though, as it was incredibly hot and we needed grub. We hit up Leks’ favorite spot, called Papaye, for some friend rice and chicken, picked up a couple beers, and headed home to relax in what we have come to call the ice box. Its a nice room in the house with a very good A/C unit, and when you close the door it becomes delightfully cool. The weather here is in the 90’s, but the humidity, believe it or not, is worse than Gainesville.
Today was incredibly interesting. We woke up early to attend the funeral of a former employee of the family, who was only 38 when died. Me and Paul, the father in the family, were talking about how strange the culture is surrounding life in general here. None of the family would step forward to help him when he was sick, but they all came together for his funeral and spent a ton of money on the ceremonies for it. It seemed a bit strange that they would not put that much effort into saving his life, but they would into his funeral. He died of something like a stomach ulcer or a perforated bowel, its not quite clear. The funeral was interesting. There was a lot of praying, and speeches by the kids, wife, and grandchildren of the deceased. Then there was the viewing of the body, which they had put into a nice suit, with lots of gold jewelry on, and a gold coin in his mouth. Definitely not a pretty site. The deceased was being buried with his brother, as it was a joint funeral (they died 3 wks apart). The man we went to go pay respects to had been dead since March, and his brother three weeks after that. So the bodies had been at the morgue for all that time, with occasional power outages…not a good combo. We were then fed some Ghanian chicken and slightly spicy rice, which was delicious. All in all an interesting experience. No pictures unfortunately, as I did not want to offend anyone and the protocol was not well established.
A bit dark, but some puddles and mounds of dirt, and beyond the ocean. Shot out of the window as we drove by.
Thats it for now, more to come.
-Walk slowly, so as to make friends-
- And It Begins
So the adventure begins. I landed last night here in Accra, Ghana. The flights here were really smooth. From Orlando to London my flight was so empty I could lie down over three seats. I stopped off in London for seven hours, and was able to take a train to go grab a quick brunch with two of my lovely cousins, Amelia and Freya. I then headed back to the airport for another smooth flight to Accra. I ran into a little trouble coming through immigration, as I did not have Aleksis’ address on me, so the officials made me go find him. He as not there yet, so I just got an address off another Ghanian, and put that down instead. It all worked out.
Aleksis met me at the airport, and we headed home, by which time it was about 9 p.m. We hung out with the family here, which includes Paul (father), Hannah, Oscar, Miriam, Aleksis, and Marjatta (mother). Aleksis has been a good friend of mine since middle school. His mother is here working with a non-profit group helping assist in sustainable agricultural enterprises, while his dad works as a physician for the CDC here specializing in infectious disease. It’s a nice set-up to be working for the government (U.S.), as they are paying their rent at this nice house, the utilities, and certain amounts of the cost of shipping things over from the states. There is also a house keeper/cook, and a guard during the nights. It’s a great house, with a small zoo in the front. An African parrot resides in the front, along with two large tortoises, two guinea fowl, two dogs, and some cool looking lizards (wild).
This morning we picked up the rest of the crew, A. Mitch and Moose. On the way home, we allegedly merged from a turn lane at an intersection into the going straight lane (me and Aleksis are fairly certain it was a go straight or turn lane). We got pulled over by a cop standing in the middle of the road, who asked why we did such a thing. We told him we didn’t see any signs, and he insisted there were at least ten signs…definitely not the case. Anyways, he made us let him get in the car so we could drive to the police station so he could write us a ticket. Upon pulling up to the station he said he forgave us, asked if we had any dollars as a bribe, and upon a negative response left us alone. Pretty clever way of getting a ride back to the station…haha. Although hassling foreigners is definitely a part of life here I will have to get used to , the Ghanian people are incredibly kind. From the Ghanian in Gainesville I met who offered her sister, who is a police officer, to escort us around, to the nice guy on the plane who gave me his number so he can show me “his” Accra. Very cool. I feel bad in a way as there is no way I would ever be able to take all these nice poeple up on their offers.
Its going to be an adventure. More soon.